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INTRODUCTION

Thank You for visiting Stuff 4 Pools, the new on-line shop for all your Swimming Pool and Spa needs.

Stuff 4 Pools is bought to you by Merlin Leisure Group a locally renowned Swimming Pool Company who for 30 years has been providing high quality Swimming Pools and has a valued commitment to supplying high quality chemicals.

With our knowledge and expertise we will provide you with every you need to successfully run your Swimming Pool or Spa.

* An Extensive Range of Stuff 4 Pools Swimming Pool Chemicals Inc: Chlorine, pH & Alkalinity Balancer, Chlorine Tablets, and Shock Chlorine
* Fi-Clor Spa Chemicals
* Above Ground Pool by Intex
* High Quality Maintenance Equipment
* Solar Covers & Accessories

We also have the amazing opportunity to sell the immensly popular Softub and all accessories.

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LINKS

Other Websites that may be of interest to you:

www.merlinswimmingpools.co.uk
www.softub.co.uk
www.aligator.co.uk
www.espa-pumps.com
www.aquasprite.com
Swimming Pool Equipment & Supplies in Colchester

GENERAL POOL CARE

Your swimming pool will give years of trouble-free service if the following points are remembered:

1. Check and correct pH and disinfectant levels daily, or at least weekly, as per the manufacturer's recommendations.
2. Be careful when adding chemicals, especially large doses. It is preferable to dissolve pool chemicals in cold water and add as a solution, since undissolved chemicals can damage the pool finish.
3. Check the filter and backwash* as required.
4. Check the pump coarse strainer basket.
5. The surface skimmer removes all floating debris - the larger debris being retained in the skimmer basket with the finer particles being trapped in the filter. The skimmer basket will require emptying at intervals, and if there are trees close to the pool, frequent checking and emptying will have to be done at leaf or blossom falling times.
6. Vacuum the pool as required or consider buying an automated cleaner from your SPATA Maintenance Company.
7. The pool should be kept full of water at all times (except where winterising has been undertaken where the level may have been lowered).
8. Leaves must not be allowed to lie on the pool floor for prolonged periods as these can cause staining.
9. On a liner hopper pool with steep sides, do not encourage standing on the slopes. In hot water a pool liner is pliable and feet can cause wrinkles.
10. Any dirt accumulation around the water line can be removed with a specially formulated Tile and Liner Cleaner. Regular use of the Tile and Liner Cleaner will give the best results. (Do not use household cleaners, strong acid, wire wool or a wire brush, as these will damage the finish.)
11. Liner manufacturers recommend that the temperature of the pool water in liner pools should not exceed 28oC (85oF).
12. Have the pool equipment serviced regularly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
13. Always use a SPATA Installer/Maintenance Company. * Process of cleaning a filter by reversing the flow of water through the medium in the filter tank.

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MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

With an outdoor swimming pool the annual maintenance schedule should comprise the following: -

* Weekly Servicing.
* Winterisation or Autumn Shut Down.
* Recommissioning or Spring Opening.

An indoor pool will also require servicing but this will normally be monthly rather than weekly. Heating, water treatment and air handling units will require additional specialist servicing. The pool hall will require the usual building type maintenance, depending upon the construction.

WEEKLY SERVICE

Regular maintenance of the pool and all its equipment will increase its life and make you aware of problems as they occur rather than afterwards when costly repair bills may result.

You will find that it is much easier to get into a routine if you try to do the servicing on a set day each week rather than on a haphazard basis.

1. Check the water level and top-up as necessary.
2. Clean the filter pump coarse strainer.
3. Backwash the filter.
4. Clean the skimmer baskets
5. Vacuum the pool.
6. Clean the pool cleaner
7. Check and adjust the disinfectant and pH levels
8. Check your stock of pool chemicals and re-order as necessary.

This guide can also be applied to the indoor pool, extending the frequency to four weeks.

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WINTER MAINTENANCE

Once the swimming season has finished you must prepare for winter and the coming months of inactivity - winterisation. You must prepare for the cold weather and guard against frost damage as severe frosts can burst pipes, heaters, and filters. Should any major work be needed then the winter is the time to sort it out.

Once the pool is winterised then the level of regular maintenance required is very much less than during the season. There are no hard and fast rules governing the actual date of winterising; however the lower the ambient temperature becomes the more expensive the heating becomes. Should you have a lot of trees around the pool then you may wish to leave the date until after the leaves have fallen.

You should not empty the pool as part of winterising as the empty shell will be at risk from frost attack on the internal surfaces. It would also be a hazard as falling into it will be much more dangerous than if it were full.

Winterising does not mean that the algae will stop growing, so you will need to treat the water until the water temperature drops to about 7oC (42oF).

Once the date of winterisation is set you must decide how the equipment is to be left during the winter. Basically there are two alternatives: -

1. Run the filter pump only for two to three hours per day. This can only be done if the plant room can be fully protected against the frost. This will also mean that the filter will have to be serviced on a monthly basis during the winter and you will use some electricity. However recommissioning and winterising are easier and quicker.

2. Drain the filtration and heating equipment of water and store the pumps in a warm environment.

RECOMMISSIONING YOUR POOL

At the end of the winter and before you start the swimming season you will need to Recommission the pool: you will need to prepare for the coming season.

There are no hard and fast rules laid down as to when to do this, it is entirely up to you. However the following factors can be taken into consideration: -

* Once the weather starts to warm the algae will start to grow. Having a winter cover on the pool will be no deterrent and you will have to start chemically treating the water.

* Recommissioning early means that you do not miss the first of the warm swimming weather.

* When the pool is recommissioned you do not have to start the heater immediately if the weather is not quite right.

* Easter usually heralds the start of the season and children will be at home wanting to swim.

* Once the weather turns for the good everyone will want their pools opened.

FILTRATION

The filter removes particles of dust and debris that are held in suspension in the water. For domestic pools during the bathing season it is necessary to filter (turn over) the contents of the pool at least once every day. As the water temperature rises and bathing increases, so does the necessity of running the filter for longer periods. Once the pool is up to temperature, it is certainly recommended that the filter be run for at least 10 hours every day.

It is strongly recommended that a time clock be fitted to the filter pump, which will ensure that this essential period of daily filtration becomes automated.

The pool water must always be crystal clear for safety reasons. If the water becomes dull or cloudy the pool chemistry must be adjusted, and then the filter should be run for 24 hours per day until sparkling clarity is regained.

A high wind or bathing party will introduce an excess of debris into the pool and the pool water can go cloudy overnight. Continuous filtration, possibly with the use of a flocculent*, will quickly restore the clarity of the pool.

CLEANING AND BACKWASHING FILTER

The filter will take out fine particles from the water and will consequently become partially blocked after a period. On the filter is a pressure gauge. The pressure will rise as the filter becomes dirty and this indicates when backwashing should be carried out. Note the pressure when the filter has been backwashed and the media is clean. This is called 'the clean running pressure'. When the pressure has risen by 5lbs per square inch above the clean running pressure, the water flow around the pool will be consequently lessened, and the filter should be backwashed. However it is easier to backwash the filter on a regular basis, which, with an outdoor pool, is once per week.

Periodical chemical cleaning of the filter, by means of a proprietary filter cleaner is desirable for optimum performance.

* A chemical which, when added to the pool water, causes fine particles to collect together and form larger particles more easily removed by the filter.

SAND FILTER BACKWASHING

1. Switch off the pump and other equipment (cleaners, heater etc.)
2. Depress the lever on the multiport valve and turn to the BACKWASH position. Open backwash waste valve (if fitted) and run out hose if fitted.
3. Switch on the pump and run for approximately 2 minutes. The dirty water will pass through the sight glass on the multiport, which will gradually clear until the filter is clean.
4. Switch off the pump. Move the lever to the RINSE position.
5. Switch on the pump and run for 15-30 seconds. Switch off the pump and other equipment.
6. Switch to the FILTER position. Switch on the pump and other equipment to re-commence filtration.
7. Close the backwash valve (if fitted) and run in hose.
8. For cartridge and diatomaceous* earth filters the procedures are different and the manufacturers instructions must be adhered to. Your SPATA Maintenance Company will advise.

RECOMMENDED WATER LEVELS

Water Level in the Pool

The water level must be at least halfway up the skimmer weir* aperture; otherwise there is a danger that the filter pump will suck in air and lose the ability to pump water (this can damage the pump). When the weather is hot and the pool well used, a lot of water can be splashed out, and there will be additional losses from evaporation and from backwashing the filter. Consequently, keep a check on the water level and top-up as necessary, especially during the peak times in the summer when the pool may lose 50-80 mm (2-3 inches) of water per week.

PUMP STRAINER BASKET

Pump Coarse Strainer

In front of the pump is a coarse strainer basket. The purpose of the coarse strainer is to prevent any debris entering the pump and causing damage to the impeller.

This is accessible by undoing the two wing nuts, a screw thread or lid clamping device and removing the lid. The basket can then be removed and emptied. However to prevent the water from falling back in the pipes to the level in the pool the suction valves in front of the pump and the multiport valve should be closed before cleaning and opened afterwards.

After using a skim-vac adapter and vacuuming through the skimmer basket, see page ***, the coarse strainer will require inspection. However, when vacuuming through a vacuum point, all the debris will be trapped on the pump coarse strainer, which will have to be cleaned after, and if necessary during the pool vacuuming.

When replacing the lid of the coarse strainer, make certain that the gasket and top are thoroughly clean and screwed up tightly to form an air-tight fit, and that the gasket is correctly positioned.

CLEANING YOUR POOL

POOL VACUUM

Some dust and debris will blow into the pool and lie on the pool floor. This can only be removed with a pool vacuum or automatic pool cleaner. New pool owners may experience a little trouble in operating the vacuum for the first time, and the following technique is suggested:

1. Put the pool vacuum head with the hose attached into the pool. This should be close to the skimmer/vacuum position, and stretch the remaining hose along the pool surround.
2. Feed the hose down into the water a little at a time, which will fill the hose up with water and remove the trapped air through the open end above the water level.
3. Fit the end of the hose through the skimmer on to the special skim vac plate that fits over the skimmer basket. If there is no skim vac plate available, remove the skimmer basket and place the hose in the suction hole at the base of the skimmer. Alternatively, if the vacuuming is carried out from a vacuum point, attach the hose direct to this point.
4. The vacuum will now operate, and to get maximum suction, the skimmer (vacuum) valve must be fully open and the other suction valve(s) should now be closed. Do not take the vac head out of the water as it could cause the pump to lose prime.
5. The vacuum head should be slowly pushed across the floor and slopes. If pushed too fast it will stir up the dirt into suspension. The suction of the vacuum will gradually diminish as the filter becomes dirty, and it may be necessary to backwash the filter to get good suction to complete the pool cleaning.

VACUUM TO WASTE

If the pool floor is very dirty it is best to vacuum to waste, which is the quickest way to vacuum without blocking up the filter. Commence vacuuming in the normal way, and then stop the pump and re-position the multiport at 'waste' (if a valve is fitted on the waste line, open this before switching on the pump). Recommence vacuuming. All the water is sucked out, by-passing the filter, and pumped out to waste along the backwash line. This operation reduces the pool water level, which must be topped up. It is therefore advisable to overfill the pool before the cleaning process.

If Pool Vacuum Stops Operating

This can be due to the following:

a) If using the skim/vac adapter, the basket in the skimmer may be blocked up with leaves.
b) Large leaf or similar sucked over the opening on the pool vac head.
c) Leaves or debris blocking up the hose.
d) The basket in the coarse strainer in front of the pump may be blocked, especially if vacuuming through a vac point.
e) The pump may have become unprimed through sucking in too much air. This can happen quite easily on commencement if all the air has not been removed from the hose.
f) If all the above are correct and there is still no suction, then the filter should be backwashed (this is the most common).

AUTOMATED CLEANERS

There are several makes of automated cleaners, which divide into vacuum, pressure and independent types. Most have strainers and filters that will require cleaning on a regular basis. If you are not sure of what needs doing consult your SPATA Maintenance Company.

There is no hard and fast rule whether these cleaners should be left in the pool or only put in when the pool is to be cleaned: it is simply a matter of personal preference. However some low voltage electrical cleaners do not recommend that swimming should take place while they are in use.

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SWIMMING POOL HEATING

Pool heaters, whether heat pump, gas, electric or oil are fitted with a thermostat to keep the pool at a controlled temperature. Solar panels are controlled by a differential temperature control to activate the system whenever solar heat is available for collection. It is important that you identify the temperature you require in the pool, the available fuels on site, and therefore the best system to suit your requirements.

Whether you have an oil or gas-fired boiler or heat pump, remember that these units require servicing and winterisation in the autumn by your SPATA Maintenance Company to keep them in good condition.

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HEAT PUMPS

A heat pump is quite simply a refrigerator, which is trying to cool the atmosphere and put the heat it collects from it into the pool water, as opposed to the domestic refrigerator which is cooling your butter, milk etc and putting the heat from those items into the atmosphere in the kitchen. It is effectively a solar collector.

This is achieved by a large cylindrical fan in the heat pump which moves air through the heater. The air, which is relatively warm, passes over an evaporator containing a liquid, which boils at very low temperature. When it boils, like water turning to steam, it turns to a vapour. This vapour is pumped into a compressor and compressed which increases its temperature by five to six times; that is to say for every unit of electricity you pay for to run the compressor you get four to five free units to heat the pool water.

This hot gas is then pumped into a heat exchanger where it heats a metal coil as it passes through it; the pool water circulates through the heat exchanger on the outside of the coil, picks up the heat and takes it back to the pool. Therefore the pool water cannot be heated unless the filter pump is circulating the water and, of course, the heat pump is switched on.

This method of heating is classified as "low grade" heat. This means that to heat the pool water you will, at the beginning of the swimming season, have to run the heat pump, and consequently the filter pump, for 24 hours per day until the desired temperature is achieved. Thereafter the running time can be cut back to 10 to 12 hours per day. It is important to have a heat retention cover on the pool to conserve the heat.

During the heating process the heat pump will produce condensation which will drip out of the discharge pipe outside the plantroom. This is a good indication that the machine is working. However at the beginning and end of the season the air temperature can get quite low even to the point when this condensation will freeze. No harm will come to the heat pump, as it will sense this. However in doing so the compressor will switch off and the fan will continue to move air through the heat pump trying to warm it up and de-frost itself.

It is important that the circulation of air is not restricted in its passage through the plant room, the heat pump, and thereafter out of the plant room. That is to say the air vents or windows must always be open and wheelbarrows, bushes, chairs etc must not block the discharge vent.

The front of the heat pump should not be covered but kept clear; periodically dust debris, flies etc should be brushed off.

Remember the indications that the heat pump is working are:

* The mains indicator lamp is on and the filter pump is running.
* There is a cold draught coming out of the discharge vent.
* There is condensate dripping out of the drain tube.

ELECTRIC HEATERS

The heater works in the same way as an electric kettle although very much larger. Most have a series of "status" neon lights, which indicate whether or not the elements are working. They also have a dedicated neon to indicate whether the power supply is on. This will stay on even when the filter pump is off.

The heater is controlled by the on/off switch on the pool control panel and also by the large switched fused isolator alongside. The heater will have on it a pool water thermostat. Once the pool water is up to the required temperature the heating elements will be switched off.

These heaters are neat, clean and easy to install, although obviously a registered electrician must make the electrical connection. They usually are sized to work on the "Economy 7" tariff. The electrical supply into the property must be competently checked before installation to ensure that an adequate supply is available.

HEAT EXCHANGERS

The heat exchanger has an outer shell which contains a multitude of small bore tubes; imagine a kitchen mug on its side and full of children's drinking straws. The hot water from the house boiler circulates between the "mug " and the "straws" and heats up the "straws"; the pool water flows through the "straws" and is heated by them. The two waters do not mix.

* The water from the house heating comes through pipes, which are connected to the heat exchanger.
* The pool water thermostat controls the pool temperature.

When the desired temperature is in excess of the actual pool water temperature a small heating circulating pump turns on and draws water from the central heating system. This flows to the heat exchanger where it loses heat to the pool water; returning to the boiler some 4-5°C (40°F) cooler. The house boiler will continue working. When the temperatures are equal or when the actual water temperature is in excess of the desired level, the heating circulating pump is turned off; the house boiler is then not cooled down and turns itself off when it reaches its running temperature.

Therefore to heat the pool the following must happen:

* The filter pump must be running.
* The house or pool boiler must be turned on and available to provide heat.
* The heating switch on the main control panel must be on.
* The pool water thermostat must be set at a temperature greater than that in the pool.

GAS HEATERS

Gas heaters whether natural gas or propane must be installed by a registered CORGI fitter in accordance with the appropriate regulations. These include the size and position of the flue, the gas supply and the ventilation. Some gas pool heaters are designed to stand outside a building in the open and in this case there is no flue. However siting is important and again must be in accordance with regulations.
Three separate switches control the heater:

* A control panel isolator.
* The on\off switch on the heater itself.
* The thermostat on the heater.
* A gas cock on the gas supply

The heater has three safety devices:

* A high limit thermostat, which will shut down the heater if it gets too hot. Once it has cooled down the stat will automatically reset itself.
* A safety gas valve, which will cut off the gas supply if the flame or pilot light goes out. In this case the heater will have to be re-lit.
* A pressure switch which will turn the heater off if the pool water stops flowing and automatically re-set itself when the flow is resumed.

The thermostat is deliberately not very accurate as the pool water passing through it varies considerably in temperature. The difference in temperature between the water drawn from the sump and that from the skimmers is as much as 100F. The easiest way to get your desired temperature is to turn the filter pump to run constantly, turn the heater ON, both on the main control panel and the heater, and turn the thermostat to maximum. Put your pool thermometer into the pool water and when that reaches your desired temperature return to the plant room, turn the heater thermostat down to the position where the heater just goes out; the thermostat setting will then match the pool water temperature and will then maintain that temperature in the pool.

Should the heater pilot light go out, re-lighting instructions are usually set out on the inside of the front door or in the appropriate instruction booklet.

Always ensure that all air vents are clear and/or the ventilation is not hindered.

OIL HEATERS

Pool water flowing directly through them and operate in a manner similar to the Gas Heater (described above). In the main they are standard domestic or commercial boilers which are connected to the pool water via a heat exchanger.

In this case the oil heater can either be the main house boiler with the heat exchanger added to the system in a manner similar to an additional radiator, or as a stand-alone boiler. In the latter case the boiler will need to be fully installed with either a header tank or expansion vessel and connected to the heat exchanger with a set of primary flow and return pipes.

As with the gas boiler the flue and ventilation requirements are critical but at present are not covered by direct legislation. However care must be taken when siting the boiler to ensure that flues do not terminate close to windows, to boundaries etc. Additionally stand-alone boilers will require connection to an oil supply whether existing or a dedicated tank.

SOLAR PANELS

The concept of the solar heating system gathering free heat from the sun is attractive and will work. However in this climate it is unreliable at maintaining a constant temperature in the pool. The usual heat input from a correctly sized solar panel system is 2-4°C (35-39°F) above the natural temperature of the unheated water; the higher rise occurring at the hottest part of the season.

The panels are controlled by a differential controller that is set to measure the temperature of the water and the temperature of the air. When the air is sufficiently warmer than the water the pool water flow through the panels starts. (Otherwise the heat from the pool would radiate to the air!).

Standard pool solar collectors require a bank of panels equivalent to approximately 75% of the surface area of the pool depending on the geographic location. Ideally the bank should be angled at 15° to 45° degrees to the horizontal and be facing south. The distance between the filter pump and the panels must be taken into consideration when designing and siting such a system.

Solar panels are most effective when combined with another fossil fuel heater.

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POOL COVERS

There are several different types of pool covers available, which fulfil different functions.

HEAT RETAINING COVERS

These are primarily used to conserve heat by preventing heat loss from evaporation and cold winds. These covers float on the pool surface and do not require fixing. For ease of handling pool rollers are available.

There are several types available, the most popular being the bubble cover, which saves heating costs and gives free solar heat through the blanket to increase the pool temperature. Floating covers do prevent a lot of debris from entering the pool but need careful handling when removing or the debris will fall back into the pool. When winterising the pool, remove the cover, and thoroughly dry and store it away carefully over the winter. (If the cover is left lying on the pool in icy conditions, the cover will deteriorate.)

The use of a suitable roller will simplify the handling of the cover which must NEVER be left rolled, folded or exposed to strong sunlight.

WINTER DEBRIS COVERS

A winter cover, suspended across the pool, will keep out the majority of leaves, debris etc. The cover is made approximately 60 cms (2 ft) longer and wider than the pool to give the necessary overlap, and is normally provided with special fixings that simply slot into holes drilled into the surround paving. When installed, the cover straps should be tightened so that the cover is tight fitting and it should be re-examined a few days after initial fitting and any slackness eliminated. These winter covers keep out debris and leaves, but allow any rain to pass through. If the cover is maintained in good condition and firmly anchored, it can be considered to provide a limited degree of safety. However, complete safety should not be expected.

There are certain trees that have very unpleasant habits during the early spring: willows and poplars for instance shed white feather debris for which the winter debris cover is invaluable. It is desirable to keep the cover clear of the water at all times, although a snow load will push the cover on to the water where the water will support that extra weight. If your cover becomes locked into ice, leave it alone or you will damage it.

AUTOMATIC COVERS

For added safety and ease of operation, power operated lockable covers are available in either fabric or plastic slatted materials.

STORAGE OF COVERS

Before storing the cover, remove all of the debris and clean it. Store away from excess heat and also from concentrated chemicals. NEVER clean the cover with solvents, as this will cause it to shrink.

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TROUBLESHOOTING! Pump Priming

Some difficulties may be expected in priming the pump at the commencement of the season. The following procedure is suggested:

1. Make sure that the pool is full. It is extremely difficult to prime the pump if the pool is less than three-quarters full.
2. Close all the valves in front of the pump.
3. Set the multiport at 'waste' (or backwash).
4. Remove the top of the coarse strainer and fill to the top with water. Replace the top firmly.
5. Switch on the pump and immediately open one of the valves. After a minute or two, the pump should start pumping and the pressure gauge will rise. If this does not happen within three minutes, switch off and go through the procedure again. When the filter is operating satisfactorily with this one valve open, the second valve can be opened very slowly. If the pressure gauge immediately drops to zero, shut off the second valve until the pressure has risen to normal and slowly open again. Continue in this manner until the gauge is constant with both valves fully open.

If the pump will not prime, there is probably an air leak in front of the pump. It could be that:

1. The top of the coarse strainer is not sealed correctly.
2. The socket union between the pump and the valves is not fully tightened.
3. The rubber gasket has not been replaced in the socket union.

On older pumps, if the priming is difficult, there may be a leak between the pump and the pump motor. A worn pump seal will suck air and make priming difficult and should be replaced.

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TROUBLESHOOTING! Heaters

With all heaters, if the following obvious troubles are not the cause of the heater failure, consult your SPATA Maintenance Company.

ELECTRIC HEATER

These heaters are usually on 'economy' electrical supply, operated by a time clock. A power cut may alter the time for switching on the unit.

Check and reset time clock.

If the filter requires backwashing, only a small volume of water may pass through the heater, and the built-in safety device will trip the excess temperature switch.

To restore the safety device, backwash the filter and reposition the switch.

The heater will not operate if the thermostat is set at a lower temperature than the pool water.
Set thermostat to the correct temperature.

GAS HEATER

Insufficient amount of water passing through the heater will not operate the pressure switch.
Adjust to correct amount of water.

Filter requires backwashing - Backwash filter.

Pilot light may have blown out - Re-light pilot light.

The heater will not operate if the thermostat is set at a lower temperature than the pool water.

Set thermostat to the correct temperature.

OIL HEATER

Check the oil level in the tank. This may seem obvious, but many calls are due to no oil. Check and fill the tank with oil if necessary.
Check the temperature controller. Adjust if necessary.
Check reset button on the burner.

HEAT EXCHANGER

Check that the boiler supplying heat is operating. If not, consult your SPATA Maintenance Company.

Check for airlock in the heat exchanger. Consult your SPATA Maintenance Company.

Check that the secondary circulation pump is operating. If not, consult your SPATA maintenance Company.

Check the temperature controller. Adjust if necessary.

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GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING

ELECTRIC MOTOR WILL NOT START
Check fuse, if motors hums the impeller may be jammed.
Turn off electrical supply and call your SPATA Maintenance Company.

PRESSURE GAUGE IS ABNORMALLY LOW
Check that both suction and skimmer valves are open.
Check that the skimmer and pump strainer baskets are clean.
Check the water level.

PRESSURE GAUGE IS ABNORMALLY HIGH
Check that any valves on the return line are open.
Check the backwash filter is not blocked with calcium or other deposits.

AIR BUBBLES CONTINUALLY BLOWING INTO POOL THROUGH INLET FITTING
Air is being sucked into the system.

Check the water level in the pool and the top of coarse strainer.
If these are correct, the cause may be a faulty joint or gate valve on the suction side of the pump. Bubbles will always be blown into the pool after commencement of filtering/after backwashing, but these should disappear after 5-10 minutes.
If none of these recommendations work, consult your SPATA Installer/Maintenance company.

WATER IS CLOUDY, NOT CRYSTAL CLEAR
Check pH and disinfectant levels.

Filter continuously until clear, using a flocculent if necessary.

WALLS AND FLOORS ARE SLIPPERY
This is the commencement of algae forming.

Check the pH and disinfectant levels.
Follow chemical manufacturer's recommendations for algae treatment.

HOLE IN SWIMMING POOL VINYL LINER
The specially formulated vinyl liner is very tough, and will resist normal stresses and strains. It has been known however, for pool owner's children to play with air rifles, harpoon guns, bows, arrows and other sharp objects which can damage a vinyl liner. Fortunately holes and tears can be easily mended even with the pool full of water.
Your SPATA Maintenance Company can do this for you, or supply a patching kit.
To make a repair, cut a patch slightly larger than the hole, round off the corners and apply the special adhesive to the patch.

Place the patch over the hole and press from the middle outwards to expel all water. This patch will adhere firmly, and the water pressure will also keep it in place.

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ABOVE GROUND POOL MAINTENANCE

Small Above Ground Pools are ideal for fun in the summer sun. They are relatively inexpensive to buy, simple to put up and easy to maintain with a few simple tips. For hours of enjoyment read on and get the most out of you above ground swimming pool.

Gaining a little knowledge and understanding of Swimming Pool Chemicals and how you use them is required to ensure your pool is free from bacteria and the water is always safe, clean and sparkling.

The pool water needs to be filtered on a daily basis this is carried out by your filter unit. It is advised you follow the instructions supplied with you filter as to how many hours the filter should run each day. The filter removes any small particles that become suspended in the pool water. If these particles are not removed they will turn the pool water cloudy. The filter you will get with a small above ground pool is usually a cartridge, which will need cleaning on a regular basis to remove any debris caught and any lotions and cosmetics, also ensuring maximum filtration.

So your pool has been filled with fresh water straight from the tap. The water may be good enough to drink but after a short amount of time bacteria will start growing, the water will start to look murky and by the time this happens there are probably millions of bacteria in every litre of water. It is therefore incredibly important to treat the water correctly using chlorine tablets or granules.

Firstly you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pool.

10ft dia x 3ft deep = 1,250 gallons or 5.7 cubic metres
10ft dia x 4ft deep = 1,750 gallons or 8 cubic metres
12ft dia x 3ft deep = 2,000 gallons or 9.1 cubic metres
12ft dia x 4ft deep = 2,500 gallons or 11.4 cubic metres
15ft dia x 3ft deep = 3,250 gallons or 14.8 cubic metres
15ft dia x 4ft deep = 4,250 gallons or 19.3 cubic metres
18ft dia x 4ft deep = 6,250 gallons or 28.41 cubic metres
(All volumes have been rounded down)

To calculate your pool volume please use formula below when measuring in feet:
Diameter x Diameter x Depth x 4.90 = UK Gallons

Chlorination
To ensure your pool water is safe and clean you need to ensure your free chlorine level is between 1.5 -4ppm. You do this by adding chlorine granules or tablets. All of our Stuff 4 Pools Chlorine has dose rates printed on the labels so it is just a case of checking the dose rate and adding the required amount. We suggest using the Stuff 4 Pools Stabilised Chlorine Granules or Tablets as the built in stabiliser reduces the amount of chlorine lost due to sunlight which destroys chlorine quickly.

It is also good practice to shock treat your pool once a week to raise chlorine and kill any combined chlorine compounds. Also shock treatments may be required after heavy rainfall, or heavy use. When shock treating pool water always wait for chlorine to fall to at least 4ppm before using pool again.

pH
The pH scale tells you how acid or alkaline the water in your pool is. It is important to maintain the pH level between 7.2-7.6 for a number of reasons. A high pH level causes the chlorine in the water to become less effective than if the level is below 7.6. A high pH can also be the cause of cloudy water and scaling which can damage filters and heating. To keep the pH level at the correct level you will need to use Stuff 4 Pools pH & Alkalinity Reducer to lower the pH and Stuff 4 Pools pH Increaser to increase pH. Again, all dose rates are printed on the packaging.

It is important that you test the pool regularly to ensure all levels are correct. If the tips are followed there is no reason you can't get a summer full of enjoyment from your swimming pool.

So, those are the basics on how to maintain your pool. Maintaining chlorine and pH levels are the main steps you need to take to ensure your pool is always sparkling clean and free from bacteria.

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SPA MAINTENANCE

A Spa is designed to give relaxation and enjoyment in the warmth of bubbling water. A small amount of knowledge is required to ensure the water is kept crystal clear and looking inviting.

Chemicals are required to keep the water bacteria free and comfortable for those using the spa.
Your Spa Dealer should fill the spa and chemicalise it on installation. It is recommended that your spa is drained, cleaned and refilled every 3 months. It is also a good idea to shock treat the water at least 24hrs before you intend to start re-using the spa.

Your Spa water needs to be treated on a daily basis with chlorine. The chlorine level needs to be maintained between 3-5ppm mg/l. You can use either stabilised chlorine or shock, please see product labels for exact dosage rates. You will also need to check your alkalinity and pH on a regular basis. Getting the right levels will ensure that your chlorine works efficiently and help stop corrosion of the spa parts. pH levels should be between 7.2-7.6ppm and alkalinity should be between 100-200ppm. Add Stuff 4 Pools pH Reducer to reduce the levels or add Stuff 4 Pools pH Increaser to increase the levels. Always use the dosage rating on the product instructions and refer to your Spa guide.

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HELP! My Pool Is Green

There is always a possibility that at some point through the summer season your pool will turn a nasty shade of green. This usually occurs if the chlorine level has fallen for a few days. Do not panic you should be able to bring the water back and within a few days have a clear, clean and sparkling pool again.

There are two ways to kill the algae which are causing your pool to be green. You can either shock treat with Stuff 4 Pools Shock Chlorine Granules or Stuff 4 Pools Liquid Shock. Both products have the dose rate on the packaging to ensure you use the correct amount for your size pool.

After 48hrs check the pH level as this may need to be corrected.

To keep algae at bay you need to ensure your pH and chlorine levels are maintained at the correct levels. When they are at the correct levels you can add an algaecide to help prevent algae from forming. We recommend Alicide©, a granule which needs to be diluted in warm water and poured into the pool. Alicide© is a copper based product which prevents algae from growing in the water. It also kills black algae as well as the traditional green.

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